Does Size Matter with Diamonds?

A Guide to Choosing Your Engagement Ring

Rings9The jury is still out, but it is something that every Lady will have a definite opinion about. In essence, when choosing an engagement ring it all comes down to the size and quality of the stone, or stones. But before we get to the interesting questions, we should cover a few of the basics.

The Budget

Traditionally the cost of an engagement ring was around two month’s wage. But in reality, spend what you can afford and what you are comfortable spending. The amount you can expect to pay can vary enormously. A perfectly acceptable ring (0.7 carat, I colour, good Round Cut, VS1 Clarity, on a yellow gold setting) from a reputable online vendor will set you back around $3,400. However if you wander down to Tiffany & Co, you can pick up a stunning 2.5 carat round solitaire Ring from $57,000.

As a rule of thumb don’t be afraid to haggle, and keep in mind that people are increasingly using the internet, not only to research but also to buy both stones and settings. Naturally if you go down this path, make sure the website is reputable and that the right documentation is provided. If you are buying from overseas and the purchase is more than $1,000 you will also have to pay GST on top of the original price.

Buy Off The Shelf or Custom Made

Rings2The second hurdle is to decide whether to buy off the shelf or custom-made. In both these cases you will still need to have the ring sized appropriately. The best bet for sizing is to “borrow” one of your other half’s existing rings. But make sure that it is something that she wears often, is comfortable with and fits the right finger!

Custom made to measure is an interesting process. You either can commission a specific design or even have a go at designing something yourself. In my own case I took what I knew of my wife’s tastes, took a few hints from things that I had seen in some very expensive windows and drafted up a design. This pathway is not for the faint of heart and finding a good Jeweller is very important. I was lucky, as a friend of my sister came highly recommended. She did a wonderful job and even helped me shop for the right stone wholesale. And when it comes to choosing a stone, trust is very important.

The Four C’s

The Four C’s are Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat weight.

With diamonds it all comes down to some very simple but fiendishly challenging options. Not putting any stress on it, but this is a decision that your dear wife may have to live with for the rest of her days. She will be more aware of this than you can possibly ever know.

There is also the 5 th “C” which refers to the quality of the actual Diamond Cut. A perfectly cut Diamond will outshine any of the more ‘regular’ cuts. Only about 10% of Diamonds are cut to precise mathematic angles to qualify as a “Hearts and Arrows” diamond. They are also referred to as ‘triple EX’ which means it states on the Certificate that the Cut, Polish and Symmetry of the Diamond is rated; Excellent, Excellent, Excellent.

The cut of a diamond determines its dimensions, its brilliance and its finish. Most experts regard the cut as the most important factor, as the right cut will maximize the light reflected off the stone, while a poor cut will reduce the stones brilliance, regardless of clarity or colour.

Popular cuts include: The round brilliant cut accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold and is considered to be the benchmark. The round cut, by its very nature is also the best cut to give you maximum light reflection. Other shapes, especially the Baguette cut are less brilliant – the baguette for example, looks more like a piece of Ice. However the popularity of “fancy cuts” is much defined by prevailing fashion and in practicality, local availability and expertise.

The colour of diamonds can vary enormously. For engagement rings the general acceptable grades range from D (100% colourless) through to I (nearly colourless).

Generally the clearer the diamond the higher the cost, and while the difference in appearance between colourless and near colourless may not be that obvious, there is a big difference in price. Interestingly it is easier to detect colour in fancy cut diamonds which is why H or higher is often recommend as opposed to I or higher in the more standard brilliant.

Rings8Clarity is fairly straightforward to evaluate. In essence, diamonds naturally contain external marks or scratches (blemishes), or internal irregularities (inclusions). They are categorized as follows:
Flawless (FL) – no visible inclusions or blemishes.
Internally Flawless (IF) – no visible inclusions and only small blemishes on the diamond surface.
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 & VVS2) – minute inclusions that are difficult for a skilled grader to see.
Very Slightly Included (VS1 & VS2) – minor inclusions that are difficult to somewhat easy for a trained grader to see.
Slightly Included (SI1 & SI2) – noticeable inclusions that are easy to very easy for a trained grader to see with a 10 x times jewellers loupe.
Included (I1, I2 & I3) – obvious inclusions that are clearly visible to a trained grader. Included diamonds have inclusions that are usually visible without magnification or have inclusions that threaten the durability of the stone.

Carat weight is simply a measure of weight. 1 carat (1ct) is equal to 0.2 grams or 0.007 ounces. Smaller diamonds can also be measured in carat weight points, with one carat equal to 100 points.

Size Versus Quality

Everyone has their own opinion. If quality is the key, then you will need to find an acceptable balance between cut, clarity and colour. Although the selection of a setting designed to showcase the maximum amount of fire and brilliance may also prove to be a counterpoint to a small carat weight.

If size is more the goal, you could select a larger carat stone but with lower quality colour, clarity and cut. Another option includes adding side accent stones, to enlarge the appearance of the ring and total carat weight. Mounting a stone on a high pronged setting can also make a stone appear larger, as can the selection of a fancy cut such as a pear or rectangular shape.

Hopefully this information will help you to make an informed decision on the most important Ring you will ever purchase.

Written by: Eckart Schillings, Gold and Platinumsmith, Rings for Brides

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